Bacterial Control

With Bacteria, you always want to take a Multi-Barrier approach, as in practice, something can always go wrong or fail over time. You will, for example, probably not know if a UV light bulb isn't operating in the correct wavelength or if a chlorine cartridge is depleted. Thus, we always design our system with at least one safety backup layer to prevent bacteria. 

Your First opportunity is to use the time that the water is standing in the tank. There are two main routes here UV or Chlorine. UV is effective if the water is visibly very clean and the tank has no areas that will block the light.  The Vertical lights are easier to install but more expensive to run, while the Horizontal ones cost more and do not fit in smaller diameter tanks, but the bulb is replaceable and the electronics can be placed in an easy-to-reach location. Definitely the route to go if you have low or high pH water. The advantage of Chlorine dosing is that you have persistence in the water so it tends to be more effective if dosed correctly. Also, it can help with smells and metals in the water. It needs a pH of between 6.5 and 7.5 to be very effective. There are quite a few different options. Make sure to choose the one that will work best for you:

• Aquatabs are manually dosed in the tank. This gives you a very effective once-off dose that can operate at a broader than usual pH range. Ideal for periodically sterilising a tank that doesn't have persistent bacteria. 
• Klorman Tank Disinfectant System, Low cost and ideal for maintaining a very low level of chlorine where bacteria aren't present in the source water or at very low levels.
• Klorman Inline System, Great low-cost inline system where higher levels of chlorine is needed. Can be a bit tricky to set up for an accurate dose.
• Liquid Chlorine Dosing. More expensive initially, but it is very accurate and helps you set up your system to be very efficient. 

Then for In-Line Filtration, you ideally want a double-barrier filter for Bacteria and if you know you have bacteria, you want filters or housings that are resistant to bacterial growth like Silver Nano / KDF filters and Sanic Housings. For the final stage of physical filtration, you would want a physical barrier for bacteria as they tend to be the most reliable. We have nominal 0.1um filters as well as absolute-rated 0.1um filters for when you want to be extra sure. Then finally, if you have high levels of bacteria, you can use a UV light as a final fail-safe barrier to catch anything that might get through. We don't like using UV as a primary barrier as it can be overwhelmed by high levels and if it isn't working, water can still pass through. Unlike this, a physical barrier filter will get clogged and the flow will stop, indicating that something is wrong and you need to go have a look. We also strongly recommend before and after pressure gauges, as it makes it much easier to judge when maintenance is needed.